Maine Overnight Bike Tour - Day 1

Ever since I stopped running ultramarathons my thirst for adventure has remained unquenched. I became interested in bicycle touring as a means to address the boredom that has crept into my life. I did my first (and only) bike tour in the summer of 2017. It did not go exactly as planned. I mapped out a seven day route along the Massachusetts, New Hampshire and Maine coasts but had to abandon in Portland, Maine after three days due to extensive knee pain.

Being a novice bicycle tourer, I made some mistakes that likely caused my knee pain. There’s an expression in backpacking, “You pack your fears” meaning you take everything but the kitchen sink on your journey out of fear you may need it. This leads to carrying excessive and unnecessary weight. I certainly packed mine as my bike was weighed down with 35 pounds of camping gear, food, water, bike tools, extra clothing, etc. I also tried to maintain a fast (for me) pace despite the excessive weight. I believe these two factors contributed to my knee pain.

For my 2017 tour I created my own route. I have since learned that there are many established bicycle touring routes across the United States covering several thousand miles. Two such routes along the east coast are The East Coast Greenway and the Adventure Cycling Association's Atlantic Coast Route. Although they share some of the same roads and trails, they are for the most part separate routes. This summer I decided to return to Maine for an overnight tour by connecting the two routes.

Both bike routes cross paths in Portsmouth, New Hampshire which is only an hour drive from my home. After crossing the Piscataqua River into Maine, the Atlantic Coast Route (ACR) hugs the coastline while the East Coast Greenway (ECG) takes an inland route. In Kennebunk, Maine they again come within five miles of one another. I thought this would make a perfect overnight loop as the distance is approximately 80-85 miles. I vowed not to make the same mistake as I did in 2017 and departed with “only” 19 pounds of gear on my bike!

Day 1
Distance - 63.3 Kilometers (39.3 miles)
Elevation Gain - 564 meters (1,851 feet)
Max Grade -12%

Portsmouth, New Hampshire to Kennebunk, Maine via the Atlantic Coast Route. 

Navigating through the city of Portsmouth was easier than expected. There were dedicated bike paths on main roads and the narrow streets in the downtown area were not heavily trafficked. After crossing into Kittery Maine, the ACR follows Route 103 for approximately 8 rolling miles into York. In York, it turns right onto Route 1A. It was here rounding a turn, where I got my first real glimpse of the ocean and felt a cooling sea breeze coming off York Beach. This was also the first time I realized I was riding into a cross-headwind. Thankfully, it wasn't too severe and didn’t hinder my progress as I am slow enough without fighting the wind!

York Beach with Cape Neddick in the distance

In Cape Neddick, the official ACR does not take you to Nubble Lighthouse. I decided to make a detour here since I have never been to the lighthouse despite numerous car trips in the area. In a car, we feel compelled to get to our destination as quickly as possible. On a bicycle, an unexpected detour to a new sight is often welcomed as it adds to the adventure. This is one of the many things I enjoy about bike touring.

As I approached the lighthouse there was a backlog of cars trying to enter the parking lot. I joyfully rode past them on my bike! There were many tourists taking photos and enjoying the views. I started a conversation with the only other cyclists in the crowd. They were a couple from Connecticut who were riding an out-and-back from Hampton Beach New Hampshire, a distance of approximately 100 kilometers or 62 miles.

Nubble Lighthouse

One of them commented on the weight of my bicycle and suggested I get a lighter bike to ease the burden. My bike is indeed a beast, weighing over 30 pounds naked. With racks, panniers and gear it was 50+ pounds on this ride. By comparison, my new friend’s bike was made of carbon and only weighted 16 pounds! I was dumbfounded when I easily picked it up  with one hand. Sure, anyone can ride long distances on a 16 pound bike but how many cyclists can go far on a 50 pound one? Only the foolish ones I guess!  After chatting a bit more it was time to move on.

Typical rugged Maine coast

There was a short steep hill leaving Nubble Lighthouse. As I slowly climbed the hill, a SUV pulled up beside me and the passenger stuck her head out the window and asked if I needed a push. We both laughed. I certainly could have used one but I gracefully declined. Another 6 miles on a narrow, rolling two-lane road brought me into the town of Ogunquit. Here I took a 30 minute break at a friend’s house to eat a snack and refill my water bottles.

The ACR exits Ogunquit on very busy US 1 but there is an adequate shoulder and the riding is easy. A half-mile out of Ogunquit, in the town of Wells, the route turns right off US 1 and travels on coastal roads past Moody, Crescent and Wells beaches. Although quieter and more scenic, I’ve been down this stretch of road numerous times on my bike so I opted to remain on US 1. I was hoping to make up a little time given my late start out of Portsmouth.

About 32 miles into the ride, I turned onto ME 9 heading towards Kennebunkport. The ACR continues east on ME 9 to Kennbunkport and beyond but at mile 34 I turned north towards Kennebunk. I planned to spend the night in Kennebunk close to where I would pick up the East Coast Greenway trail for my return trip to Portsmouth the following day. I stopped at a restaurant on ME 35 hoping to get a meal to go for dinner. The receptionist informed me they did not have takeout which surprised me. It seems foolhardy to eliminate a reliable revenue stream if you're a business owner. Without a meal to go, I boiled some water and enjoyed a delicious (sarcasm) Mountain House meal once I stopped for the night. At least my load would be slightly less heavy in the morning.

Stay tuned for Day 2...