Riding The Farmington Heritage Canal Trail

In late October, I ventured to Central Connecticut for a two day exploration of the Farmington Heritage Canal Trail. In the 1800s, the canal extended for 82 miles from New Haven Connecticut to North Hampton, Massachusetts. As with other canals of that time period, it was rendered obsolete with the introduction of railroads. The Farmington Trail is now a 56 mile mixed-use path running from New Haven to the Massachusetts border in Suffield. 

From Bloomfield to the east, the East Coast Greenway connects to the Farmington Trail in Simsbury continuing south to New Haven and beyond. I decided to overnight in Simsbury, allowing me to ride south on day one and north on day two covering the majority of the trail. Both days were cold and windy but at least the sun was shining. The trail north of Simsbury is more scenic than the southern section and also has less street crossings.

Although it was past peak foliage, there were still some colors visible. I had a great time riding through forests, past farmlands and over rivers.  It's definitely worth a return trip in the future. Also, I recommend Rein's New York Style Deli just off Interstate 84 in Vernon, CT. I had an excellent pastrami and rye on my drive back to MA.

Taking a break at a shelter in Farmington. The East Coast Greenway trail marker overhead indicated 2,184 miles to Key West. Maybe I should have kept riding south? I'm not a fan of winter.

Crossing over the Farmington River. Water level is low due to summer drought.

View of Talcott Mountain from Avon. Heublein Tower is barely visible but if you look closely you'll see it.

Close-up of the tower and estate on Talcott Mountain. The interesting history of the tower can be found HERE.

A scenic stretch through the forest in Granby(?)

Beautiful farmland in Suffield.

Potato field in Southwick MA. Fall harvest was in full swing.

Some unexpected artwork inside a Southwick porta-potty. I don't know if this Link is the same one I found on Etsy.

And this one on the outside of a porta-potty in East Granby. I know my artist friend Emily would have had a witty comment if she saw this. Hats off to the unknown artist!

Happy Thanksgiving!

Home to Hudson Overnight Bike Tour - Day 2

Well, day two did not unfold entirely as planned. I had mapped a 57 mile route from Hudson to home but decided to stop after 33 miles at the Bedford Depot on the Minuteman Bikeway. I’ve ridden the Minuteman Bikeway from Bedford to Cambridge and the Northern Strand Community Trail from Everett to Saugus numerous times.  I felt I wasn't missing out on anything new by shortening the ride except for the section through Somerville which didn’t interest me much anyway. It was still the most climby (made up word meaning a lot of uphill riding) day I’ve had on a bike with over 1800 feet of elevation gain.

Day 2

Distance - 59.6 kilometers (33.3 miles) 

Elevation gain - 560 meters (1,838 feet) 

Max grade -12.0%

Hudson to Bedford via the Atlantic Coast Route (ACR)

Getting out of bed after a not so restful sleep, the first thing I did was to check the weather. The temperature in Hudson was in the upper 30s. Yikes! I had checked the forecast before leaving Saugus the day before so I was prepared for colder weather. I needed a light insulating layer for most of the ride as the high for the day was only in the low 60s. I didn't want to ride in 30 degree weather so I ate breakfast and waited for it to warm a bit. When the temperature was in the 40s I packed up the bike and I departed the hotel at 7:30.

There was fast moving, rush-hour traffic on route 62 so before I left the hotel parking lot I attached a rear blinking light to my bike. Unfortunately, it didn’t work. I thought I charged the light before leaving on this trip but evidently I did not. I made a mad dash south-west down the busy road for one mile and turned north onto Sawyer Hill Road in Berlin. I’m always concerned when the word “HILL” is in the name of any street I’m about to ride. Later in the day I rode Nagog Hill Road in Littleton and Strawberry Hill Road in Concord. As I said before, it was a climby day!

I took a break here after climbing a difficult hill. These three stooges were not impressed. 

Sawyer Hill Road was true to its name. I faced rolling hills followed by a longer, sustained climb on the four mile ride to Bolton. Three more miles of rolling hills in Bolton brought me to 600 feet and the high point of the day in Harvard. What goes up eventually comes down and I was rewarded with a slight two mile descent. I had a sense of déjà vu while riding through Harvard. I think it's because I ran a very hilly 10 mile road race here in 2005 named the Apple Harvest Ramble which may have been on the same road I was currently riding. I believe I placed 3rd in my age group. Surely, the older I get, the faster I was!

Unlike yesterdays ride which was through busy cities and suburbs, I was enjoying todays ride through these smaller, less populated towns. This part of the state is known for its farms and orchards. I traveled pass many on this ride including Berlin Farms in Berlin (of course), Nashoba Valley Winery in Bolton and Nagog Hill Farms in Littleton. I couldn't help but notice many apple orchards are perched atop hills. I wondered if there was an agricultural reason for this.

Berlin Farms

Nagog Hill Farm

After 14 miles on the Official ACR I reached the Boston spur in Littleton. I still had another 19 miles to the town of Bedford but I was making progress. I barely made it across the train tracks on the Fitchburg Route Main Line as the crossing gate began to close. I stood and watched as a fast moving train passed by another decaying train depot. It a shame to see these old buildings being neglected.

Old rail station in Littleton.

An important consideration when exercising for a long period is to stay hydrated. The downside to staying well hydrated is that you’ll eventually need to find a bathroom. This is not an issue when you're trail running in the woods but when you’re riding on public roads there aren’t many options. By the time I reached Acton center I felt my bladder was about to burst. Luckily, I passed the Acton fire station and was able to use their bathroom. Crisis averted!

A short while later I crossed the Bruce Freeman Rail Trail near Route 27 and entered into Concord. After climbing 1.5 miles to Strawberry Hill Road I was again rewarded with a nearly 2 mile downhill to Barrett’s Mill Farm. After negotiating my way through a busy intersection in West Concord, I was again on Route 62 for the final four miles to Bedford Depot. With shorter days ahead this will likely be my last tour for 2022, but it wont be my last. 

Back to Day 1

Home to Hudson Overnight Bike Tour - Day 1

Shortly after returning from my Maine bike tour I begin planning a second overnighter. I like maps and designing routes, whether for running, hiking or cycling, is a process I’ve always enjoyed. I live approximately one mile from the East Coast Greenway (ECG) where it passes through Saugus on the Northern Strand Community Trail. I cross-referenced the ECG map with the Atlantic Coast Route (ACR) trail map to see if the routes intersected nearby as they do in Portsmouth, New Hampshire. By comparing maps, I could see that the trails intersect in the town of Berlin approximately 33 miles west of my hometown.

The ECG travels in an east-west direction through Berlin while the ACR travels in a north-south direction. (The East Coast Greenway has been rerouted since my ride and no longer goes as far west as Worcester before turning south to Rhode Island, thereby shortening the distance to Providence by 30 miles.) Further investigation of the ACR map revealed a Boston spur to Alewife station in Cambridge via the Minuteman Bikeway. From there I could use city streets through Somerville and Charlestown to get back on the Northern Strand and home.

My plan for this overnighter was to ride 47 miles on the ECG from Saugus to Hudson on day 1. On day 2, I would pick up the ACR in Berlin, turning north towards Littleton. In Littleton, I would take the Boston spur for the return to home. This would make for a 57 mile ride on day 2 and 104 total miles for both days. Total elevation gain would be approximately 3,500 feet.

Home to Hudson Loop via the East Coast Greenway and Atlantic Coast Route

OK, I may love maps but you're probably bored out of mind by now so let's get on to the ride itself.

Day 1
Distance - 74.7 kilometers (46.4 miles)
Elevation gain - 484 meters (1587 feet)
Max Grade - 10.6%

Home to Hudson via the East Coast Greenway

After breakfast and some last minute packing I departed my house at 10:30am. The forecast called for a sunny, 70 degree day. Perfect riding weather! I was soon on the Northern Strand riding through the cities of Revere, Malden and Everett. It's a nice local bike path but there are too many busy street crossings in Malden. After passing under Route 16 I took the Mystic River path to the Encore Casino. 

I couldn't afford to lose any money so I kept riding.

Crossing the Route 99 bridge over the mystic river, the ECG is well marked through Charlestown. I commuted to work for years over the Tobin and Zakim bridges but it was an entirely different perspective riding my bike under them. Pretty cool! Before reaching the Charles River I rode past the Charlestown Naval Yard and the USS Constitution. I'm embarrassed to admit I didn't even notice the old ship as I was more concerned about avoiding tourists and pedestrians out for a stroll on this fine day.

Riding under the Tobin Bridge in Charlestown

Paul Revere Park Playground under the Zakim Bridge

The next 12 miles were traffic-free riding on the Dr. Paul Dudley White bike path which parallels the Charles River. As I passed the Charles River Canoe and Kayak launch area I saw a woman waving at me. At first I thought it must have be meant for another person but when she asked if I was riding the East Coast Greenway I knew she was waving at me. She was with Timberline Adventures in Colorado and co-leading a 825 mile guided tour on the ECG from Calais, ME to New York city. She was waiting for a few cyclists on the tour who were spending some extra time exploring Boston. I explained I was only out for a two day ride but would like to do a longer tour in 2023. 

The bike path in Boston and Alston-Brighton was paved and exposed to the sun. Although it was late September, I was feeling the heat of the sun beating down on me. When I reached Watertown I was pleasantly surprised to find dirt paths meandering under a canopy of trees. It felt much cooler in the shade. The ECG was not marked and I made a wrong turn when leaving the river behind. My GPS quickly alerted me of my error and I was back on track again.

Charles River in Boston

View of Charles River in Watertown

After two miles of busy traffic on Route 117 in Watertown, I reached the Mass Central Rail Trail in Weston. I enjoyed this quiet, four mile trail knowing Route 27 was soon to follow. I was not looking forward to this twisting, two-lane road with little to no shoulder. Leaving the trail, I took a short break at the Wayland Country Club to refill my water bottles.  I saw several golfers enjoying an alcoholic beverage in the afternoon sun. I thought to myself, "I hope they're not heading in my direction any time soon".

This train depot in Weston has seen better days. So have I.

Mass Central Rail Trail in Weston (photo taken from Google)

The next 14 miles on Routes 27 and 62 were a little stressful. I was constantly checking my mirror for oncoming traffic. Most drivers were courteous and gave me plenty of room but occasionally vehicles passed a little to close for comfort. I did get a short reprieve from traffic when I reached the Assabet River Rail Trail. My lower back had been bothering me for the past few miles so I stopped here to do some stretching and take ibuprofen. The stretching seemed to help and I rode pain free to my destination for the evening.

Google image of a narrow, shoulder-less street I had to ride. Traffic was heavy when I rode it in the afternoon.

Old boxcar on the Assabet River Rail Trail

After all the hectic miles, I was relieved to reach the Holiday Inn Express in Hudson. It was directly on the ECG route and the only lodging option. It was fitting that the final mile to the hotel was uphill. After checking in and getting to my room, (not easy getting a fully-loaded bike on a small elevation) it was time for a well-deserved shower. The only thing left to do was to eat, rest and do it all over again tomorrow!

Day 2 

Maine Overnight Bike Tour - Day 2

I awoke to a cool morning after a somewhat restless night. The first order of business was to fire up the camp stove so I could boil water for coffee and instant oatmeal. Pro tip: Instead of pouring oatmeal into your cookpot, pour boiling water directly into the instant oatmeal packet and eliminate the need to clean your pot. After breakfast, I packed up and got on the road by 8am. I was glad I had an extra layer as it was needed on this 50 degree morning.

Day 2

Distance - 66.1 kilometers (41.1 miles) 

Elevation Gain - 578 meters (1896 feet)

Max Grade - 12%

Kennebunk, ME to Portsmouth, NH via the East Coast Greenway

I headed north a short distance on ME 35 before turning left onto the East Coast Greenway (ECG). The next 25 miles would be in a south-westerly direction before turning south-east and south into Portsmouth, New Hampshire. From Kennebunk to Kittery the ECG, US1 Route and Maine's Eastern Trail (ET) use the same roads. All turns were clearly marked along the route with signage for all three routes. As was the case during my trail running days, I still managed to miss one to the turns!

US1, ET and ECG signage

Around three miles into the ride I reached the first of many climbs on the route. It was two miles in length but thankfully the grade was slight. Later in the ride I climbed two hills with 12% grades. These were very difficult hills but I was rewarded with 30 mph descents on the backside. I tried not to think what would happen if I had a mechanical issue or flat tire at that speed. Even though this climb was not steep, it felt like I was working hard on the bike. This feeling would continue for the remainder of the ride. I'm not sure if it was the lack of sleep or insufficient calories the day before, but the effort on day two was noticeably more difficult than on day one.

The miles through North and South Berwick were not memorable. I passed by a farm and a golf course but other than that it was mostly views of trees and more tress. Not that I dislike trees. It just gets a bit boring when you're in the green tunnel for extended periods. Oh, I do remember one unusual sight. While passing one of the few houses that dot the roads of North Berwick, I saw a four to five foot tall black bear standing on the front lawn. That in itself is not unusual, but this bear was playing a saxophone! You may have guessed this was not a real black bear but a fun lawn statue. I was past it so quickly I didn't stop to take a picture. One mile later I wish I had, thinking "When will I ever see something like that again?"  

I think this is one disadvantage to being on a bike. When I was trail running I would stop often to take pictures, perhaps too often. Maybe I can blame my slow race times on this? On a bike you have to stop, get the camera from your bag, get back on the bike, all the time thinking you'd be a quarter mile down the road by now. I have to remind myself a bike tour is not a race and I should take time to stop and smell the roses. 

Some miles later in South Berwick, there was a pumpkin patch on someone's front lawn. The yard was five feet or so above street level but I could still see two fairly large pumpkins. They were not 2,000 pound award winners but the larger of the two must have weighted a few hundred pounds or more. Not as exciting as a saxophone playing bear but this time I stopped to take a photo. 

Large, but not quite ready for the county fair.

As I approached a busy intersection in downtown South Berwick I saw a few restaurants on Route 236. I was out of water at this point so I decided to stop to purchase water and get something to eat. I thought getting some much needed calories would give me an energy boost for the remaining 15 miles to go. The owner of the Early Bird Café was super nice and offered to fill my water bottles for free, ice included! I devoured a delicious, giant breakfast burrito and was again on my way. If you're ever in the area you should give the Early Bird Café a try. There's also some interesting art work hanging on the walls.

Up to this point traffic had been fairly light but once I made my way into Eliot the six miles on Route103 were much busier, and noisy. Crossing the Piscataqua River for the second time in two days, I knew I was nearing the end of my journey. Now the air was much warmer than when I started the day and I was feeling tired. I saw a large shady area on the waterfront in Prescott Park and took a break here to cool down. I spent a few minutes admiring the beautiful plants before making one final push to my parked car about four miles away.

Beautiful grounds. Come visit!

I really enjoyed this mini tour. Although I struggled somewhat on day two, day one felt easy with with similar distance and elevation gain. I think my endurance will improve with more saddle time on a loaded bike. I gained confidence in knowing I could reduce the weight carried by 15 pounds compared to my 2017 tour, and still have everything I needed.  I'll definitely be taking another short tour to improve my skills before tackling a multi-day tour in 2023.

Be safe out there!

Maine Overnight Bike Tour - Day 1

Ever since I stopped running ultramarathons my thirst for adventure has remained unquenched. I became interested in bicycle touring as a means to address the boredom that has crept into my life. I did my first (and only) bike tour in the summer of 2017. It did not go exactly as planned. I mapped out a seven day route along the Massachusetts, New Hampshire and Maine coasts but had to abandon in Portland, Maine after three days due to extensive knee pain.

Being a novice bicycle tourer, I made some mistakes that likely caused my knee pain. There’s an expression in backpacking, “You pack your fears” meaning you take everything but the kitchen sink on your journey out of fear you may need it. This leads to carrying excessive and unnecessary weight. I certainly packed mine as my bike was weighed down with 35 pounds of camping gear, food, water, bike tools, extra clothing, etc. I also tried to maintain a fast (for me) pace despite the excessive weight. I believe these two factors contributed to my knee pain.

For my 2017 tour I created my own route. I have since learned that there are many established bicycle touring routes across the United States covering several thousand miles. Two such routes along the east coast are The East Coast Greenway and the Adventure Cycling Association's Atlantic Coast Route. Although they share some of the same roads and trails, they are for the most part separate routes. This summer I decided to return to Maine for an overnight tour by connecting the two routes.

Both bike routes cross paths in Portsmouth, New Hampshire which is only an hour drive from my home. After crossing the Piscataqua River into Maine, the Atlantic Coast Route (ACR) hugs the coastline while the East Coast Greenway (ECG) takes an inland route. In Kennebunk, Maine they again come within five miles of one another. I thought this would make a perfect overnight loop as the distance is approximately 80-85 miles. I vowed not to make the same mistake as I did in 2017 and departed with “only” 19 pounds of gear on my bike!

Day 1
Distance - 63.3 Kilometers (39.3 miles)
Elevation Gain - 564 meters (1,851 feet)
Max Grade -12%

Portsmouth, New Hampshire to Kennebunk, Maine via the Atlantic Coast Route. 

Navigating through the city of Portsmouth was easier than expected. There were dedicated bike paths on main roads and the narrow streets in the downtown area were not heavily trafficked. After crossing into Kittery Maine, the ACR follows Route 103 for approximately 8 rolling miles into York. In York, it turns right onto Route 1A. It was here rounding a turn, where I got my first real glimpse of the ocean and felt a cooling sea breeze coming off York Beach. This was also the first time I realized I was riding into a cross-headwind. Thankfully, it wasn't too severe and didn’t hinder my progress as I am slow enough without fighting the wind!

York Beach with Cape Neddick in the distance

In Cape Neddick, the official ACR does not take you to Nubble Lighthouse. I decided to make a detour here since I have never been to the lighthouse despite numerous car trips in the area. In a car, we feel compelled to get to our destination as quickly as possible. On a bicycle, an unexpected detour to a new sight is often welcomed as it adds to the adventure. This is one of the many things I enjoy about bike touring.

As I approached the lighthouse there was a backlog of cars trying to enter the parking lot. I joyfully rode past them on my bike! There were many tourists taking photos and enjoying the views. I started a conversation with the only other cyclists in the crowd. They were a couple from Connecticut who were riding an out-and-back from Hampton Beach New Hampshire, a distance of approximately 100 kilometers or 62 miles.

Nubble Lighthouse

One of them commented on the weight of my bicycle and suggested I get a lighter bike to ease the burden. My bike is indeed a beast, weighing over 30 pounds naked. With racks, panniers and gear it was 50+ pounds on this ride. By comparison, my new friend’s bike was made of carbon and only weighted 16 pounds! I was dumbfounded when I easily picked it up  with one hand. Sure, anyone can ride long distances on a 16 pound bike but how many cyclists can go far on a 50 pound one? Only the foolish ones I guess!  After chatting a bit more it was time to move on.

Typical rugged Maine coast

There was a short steep hill leaving Nubble Lighthouse. As I slowly climbed the hill, a SUV pulled up beside me and the passenger stuck her head out the window and asked if I needed a push. We both laughed. I certainly could have used one but I gracefully declined. Another 6 miles on a narrow, rolling two-lane road brought me into the town of Ogunquit. Here I took a 30 minute break at a friend’s house to eat a snack and refill my water bottles.

The ACR exits Ogunquit on very busy US 1 but there is an adequate shoulder and the riding is easy. A half-mile out of Ogunquit, in the town of Wells, the route turns right off US 1 and travels on coastal roads past Moody, Crescent and Wells beaches. Although quieter and more scenic, I’ve been down this stretch of road numerous times on my bike so I opted to remain on US 1. I was hoping to make up a little time given my late start out of Portsmouth.

About 32 miles into the ride, I turned onto ME 9 heading towards Kennebunkport. The ACR continues east on ME 9 to Kennbunkport and beyond but at mile 34 I turned north towards Kennebunk. I planned to spend the night in Kennebunk close to where I would pick up the East Coast Greenway trail for my return trip to Portsmouth the following day. I stopped at a restaurant on ME 35 hoping to get a meal to go for dinner. The receptionist informed me they did not have takeout which surprised me. It seems foolhardy to eliminate a reliable revenue stream if you're a business owner. Without a meal to go, I boiled some water and enjoyed a delicious (sarcasm) Mountain House meal once I stopped for the night. At least my load would be slightly less heavy in the morning.

Stay tuned for Day 2...